Finally Thursday, there are no more
chores that require us to stay in Vero and we pull away from the
Velcro. We leave on a foggy and rainy morning. The south winds pick
up and there is a pretty good chop on the ICW. Lots of spray, even
though it is not that rough.
We head down to Jenson Beach. Gertie
had left ahead of us and we don't see them until late in the
afternoon, anchored behind the north side of causeway to the Jenson
Beach Bridge. We head further south to an anchorage called Manatee
Pocket. Once we pass under the bridge the boats on the south side of
the causeway are hobby horsing in the waves in the long southern
fetch. Not a place I would want to be. Nearly, impossible to get on
or off a boat in those conditions.
New clear vinyl connector
Although somewhat shallow getting into
Manatee Pocket, we never saw anything less than 8 feet. As we are
anchoring it starts to lightly rain. But we are very protected, none
of the wind we had out on the ICW is blowing in this small harbor
with 360 degree protection. Within 30 minutes, around 5:30 PM, it
starts pouring and blowing. Because of the confines, we swing around
a lot in the constantly changing wind direction, but we have no real
waves. Amazingly, this torrential down pour goes on for 3 hours.
Looking at the weather radar a rather small cell stalls over the area
for hours. Back in Vero, they just have a few showers. We are in a
boat, in a protected place, so no big deal. Later, I find out that
our friends on Gertie, had their anchor drag as the wind direction
kept changing. They finally had to put out all their anchor chain
and rode to get the anchor to hold. It was not a fun time for them
just a mile or two from us. They had an empty bucket that was over
flowing in their cockpit, indicating that we had at least 12 inches
of rain.
We are the blue dot and these two screen shots are 3 hours apart. The cell did not move in that time
Further south around Palm Beach another cell parks over that area giving them even more rain. There was considerable flooding and damage in this record rain. And this is the “dry season” here in Florida. Being in a boat we were unaware of the flooding on shore, we were floating just as high. Although the next day we are dodging a lot of floating coconuts. On the other hand the boat has been completely de-salted. Manatee Pocket looks like an anchorage that you could spent a number of days at, good shore access and stores and marinas close by. Unfortunately, we need to move on.
We are the blue dot and these two screen shots are 3 hours apart. The cell did not move in that time
Further south around Palm Beach another cell parks over that area giving them even more rain. There was considerable flooding and damage in this record rain. And this is the “dry season” here in Florida. Being in a boat we were unaware of the flooding on shore, we were floating just as high. Although the next day we are dodging a lot of floating coconuts. On the other hand the boat has been completely de-salted. Manatee Pocket looks like an anchorage that you could spent a number of days at, good shore access and stores and marinas close by. Unfortunately, we need to move on.
The next day we work our way down to
Lake Worth around Palm Beach. Lake Worth at some point in the past
was actually a fresh water lake behind the barrier islands. Now, due
to storms and man made outlets to the ocean it is mostly salt.
Supposedly in the “olden days” sailors could sail in here anchor
over a fresh water spring percolating up and scoop up fresh water and
then sail back out into the salt water.
Another Manana
We leave the confines of the ICW out to
the relative open area of north Lake Worth. Within 10 minutes or so
this large power yacht comes bearing down on us full speed creating a
considerable wake. Finally as they approach us they seem to slow down
slightly, but too late. Our bow plows into the wave and sends water
all the way up to our dodger. So much for getting all the salt off
our boat. Linda thought they were trying to slow down, but there
timing was off, Wrong. The Assholes were starting to slow down to
turn around and head back at full speed, waking up from behind. SOB,
if I only had a paint ball gun. I think it was a boat broker taking
someone out for a demo and was too lazy to head out to the ocean. We
were just in the wrong place. Unfortunately, a couple hours prior in
the narrow confines of the ICW Linda opened up the hatch in the head
to get some air in the boat. Violating our friend Genie Soboslai's,
warning to close all hatches when underway. Even though opened only
an inch or two our head takes a saltwater shower, filling the shower
sump. A small piece of carpet outside the head door gets soaked when
Linda opens it. Since Linda is always admonishing me for violating
one of Genie's many rules, I relish in her screw up (Our motto –
Screwing up is the gift that keeps on giving).
Lake Worth anchorage
The next day was very windy with a
heavy chop, so we stay on the boat for the day catching up on some
more chores. Made an appointment with Customs in Fort Lauderdale to
register so we can clear back into the USA from Bahamas via a phone
call.
Mega yachts on Lake Worth
The following day, Sunday, we decide to
take the ICW to Fort Lauderdale instead of sailing outside. With all
the drawbridges it makes for a slow day. The bridges on Lake Worth
are too far apart for us to motor fast enough to time their scheduled
openings without wasting time. We can make the scheduled openings
exactly on time, but unless the bridge is opening for another boat
already waiting we are out of luck. Coast Guard rules are supposedly
you must be waiting in front of the bridge to get an opening. Either
that or the bridge operators on Lake Worth are jerking us around.
Once we are off Lake Worth we are able to time all the bridges
without any waiting.
Since it was a warm, sunny, Sunday the boaters were out in droves. It was very interesting to see all the wealth along the ICW from Palm Beach down to Fort Lauderdale. We stop one bridge short of Fort Lauderdale in Sunrise Bay a small cove just off the ICW and a no wake zone. By late in the afternoon all the yahoo's have gone home and we have the place to ourselves amongst some nice reasonable size homes.
Since it was a warm, sunny, Sunday the boaters were out in droves. It was very interesting to see all the wealth along the ICW from Palm Beach down to Fort Lauderdale. We stop one bridge short of Fort Lauderdale in Sunrise Bay a small cove just off the ICW and a no wake zone. By late in the afternoon all the yahoo's have gone home and we have the place to ourselves amongst some nice reasonable size homes.
The next morning it is nice and warm so
I jump in the water with my brush and dent puller from Harbor
Freight. Dent Puller ?, a great tool to hang on the side of the boat
and scrub the waterline. All the fancy handle suction cups at West
Marine are crap, they don't suck. The dent puller will stay on all
day long, could probably leave it on for weeks. I digress, anyways
our boat is now sporting a grass skirt after 25 days of sitting on a
mooring in Vero Beach. There was a noticeable change in speed for the
same RPM after our long stay. It takes me about an hour to get the
hull clean around the waterline, which is now sitting lower with all
the additional provisions. Late morning we pull the anchor and go
through the last draw bridge and head up New River to downtown Fort
Lauderdale. This is a rather narrow river that goes through Fort
Lauderdale connects to a lot of marinas and home front docks. There
are lots of canals branching off New River. The river has some
greater than 90 degree bends so you have to pay attention, no telling
what may be coming around the corner. A barge in front of us starts
backing up in full speed reverse to make a bend to avoid landing on
some wealthy persons front lawn. We quickly have to reverse also to
avoid running into the barge.
We initially go through the first draw
bridge, one of three, down town, that open on demand except for rush
hour. There is still a fair amount of current coming down the River,
but since we are facing it, pulling up to the wall is easy. Then we
are told there is no 30 amp power available and will would have to
move downstream of the bridge to get power. We have lunch and wait
for slack tide to make the switch. With boats on both sides of the
narrow river there is barely enough room to turn our 36 feet around
and I sure don't want to do it with full current and a draw bridge
down stream. For a second time we tie up along the wall on the City
“docks” in front the Nu River Landings hotel, just down from a
draw bridge. It is in the 80's so we are looking forward to having
air conditioning and we set it to 72 degrees.
That evening we enjoy the parade of
boats up and down, Mega yachts to kayaks. Most boats are too large
to turn around in this area if they had too. Over the next couple
hours, a Mega yacht must go by every half hour. Most of them are
being moved by captains for work or staging for their owners. Many
of them are being towed. A tow boat in front and another tied to the
rear of the mega-yacht, also being towed, but backwards. The
“trailing” tow boat is the brakes of the operation to slow the
yacht down before the bridges and hold the yacht in the sharp turns.
There are a lot of boat yards that service these yachts and they are
constantly being moved around for their various service needs.
It is very interesting to be lying in
our berths and looking up through the hatch and seeing tall buildings
looming overhead. We are on the River Walk so there is a constant
parade of people walking by and we have many interesting
conversations, mostly with other boaters. Lots of museums and places
to eat, we could spent two weeks here easily. We rent a car for a
couple days, more errands, Customs, marine hardware stores, Sailorman
(Marine consignment store, very interesting place). We have our own
parking space (free) by our boat on the river walk, in an area where
it costs as much to park your car for the day as we paid to park our
boat. Pretty cool deal.
River Walk at night
Again we make one last trip to Steve
and Joanne's for mail pick up and, of course, laundry and dinner.
They also had all the rain we had the week before. Their street had
turned into a creek. We stop at the local Publix Supermarket a couple
blocks away from our boat, where you drive up two floors and take the
elevator to the first floor to shop. This place has the fastest WIFI
we have seen over the last couple months. All my iTunes shows
download way before we get to the check out counter. We decide to
stay an extra day since the temperatures are suppose to drop into the
40's over night. We set the thermostat to 72 degrees, but this time
our reverse cycle AC, is producing heat, we are getting spoiled.
The next morning I make a quick stop at
Publix for a data download and some more plantain chips. Once back
on the boat we head down the New River and out on the ocean to head
down to Miami. An afternoon motor to Marine Stadium in Miami.
For fans of "Dexter" he was not home.
Marine Stadium was a speed boat racing
oval from back in the 60's. Now, is it a very protected anchorage
with a fabulous view of Miami. The next morning Bryan rows over from
the boat next to us “Windsong”. Bryan is a retired farmer from
Indiana and this is their first boat. It's a 42 foot Bristol, they
bought in Rhode Island and took down to South Carolina to refit.
They plan to eventually head through the Panama canal and head west.
It is January 19th which is
now the 128th day out. We head over to Dinner Key Marina
to pick up a mooring. After two tries, Linda gets it hooked. I went
ashore to pay up. Walked to the hardware store and Publix. Linda
wasn't feeling well so she stayed on the boat. Showers were
interesting (temporary trailer).
Joanne and Steve Payea drove down and
we had margaritas on the boat. They gave us a ride to Home Depot and
let us off so we could walk back since we needed our exercise.
Got up the next morning and headed to
No Name Harbor at the Bill Baggs Florida State Park which is a good
jumping off point. Ann and Jack Barnes (friends from Vermont and
native Floridians) came to visit. Had drinks on the boat and went
ashore for lunch. Jack and I went into town to get diesel. Linda
and Ann stayed on the boat to get caught up. Our plan was to head to
North Bimini tomorrow since Chris Parker said that would be a good
day to head over. After staying up reading about North Bimini and
getting into the harbor I decide that it would not be a good idea
since the wind is suppose to come out of the west and pick up as the
day goes on which is not a good way to enter the harbor. Will let
Linda stay in bed longer.... Won't be another weather window until
this weekend.
Next day is rained and we just hung out
on the boat and worked on this blog and other projects.
Hi Nile and Linda,
ReplyDeleteAt the holidays Jay told me about your cruise and I've seen your blog. Congratulations!
I have just arrived Normans Cay in the Exumas and should be in the Bahamas through March. I'll keep an
eye out for Manana and hope we can meet up.
Happy cruising,
Mike Carroll
S/V Sturdy Logic
MMSI 338142803
Cape Dory 33 sloop